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#1
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When doing custom teams
What is a good weight to have the players weigh,(most leagues), and should I do a team in all one color or separate the off.in dard and def. in white?
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#2
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Tron speaks....
Hello,
If your creating a team to play in a league, you should have your offense and defense in both home and away jerseys. I don't like having the offense in dark and the defense in white. You never get to use your other figures and it takes away the team aspect in my mind. The weight limit issue is a dead arguement in most leagues these days. If you want to use custom and Reggie figures that have not been reconfigured, you play unlimited weighted. I believe that all figures should be used in non- weighted. Make it a weight range from the traditional 3.2grams to 3.6grams. This will included almost all stock figures from every supplier. Removing most heavy figures from the platform can solve some weight issues easy.It also prevents the sensitive issue of cutting and burning your figures. Hope this helps! Happy Holidays!!! |
#3
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...
I joined the hobby about a month ago...
I too wondered the exact same things.... and... from my unofficial poll, it seems to me most leagues prefer that you have a dark home jersey offense and an away white jersey defense. That is how I am creating all of my initial teams. I mean, I am sure it would be great to have an entire team made up of home and away jerseys but for me that is just financially impractical for me at this time. Sadly, each league has their own weight tolerances, so I find that I am specifically creating teams for specific leagues in my desire to be somewhat competitive. I wish there was a better way than that, but it doesn't appear to be so. - Last edited by BigFranco : 12-08-2007 at 09:40 AM. |
#4
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Thanks
I appreciate your input fellas. I was thinking along the lines of what you guys said.
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#5
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There is a 4.0 Standard
Back in 1995, I created a 3.2 gram standard for teams based solely on Tudor players of the 70's and 80's and early 90's era.
In 1999, I created a 4.4 gram standard which made it an all inclusive-type of standard. In 2000, the standard was reduced to 4.0 grams. What we have noticed in the DFW League, ACEFL, and a few other leagues is that at 4.0 grams, the players perform at a higher level. When I originally created FF.COM figures, each player was created from 22 NFL stars and 2 College stars and the weights and heights were based on relative proportional weights and heights of their real life counterparts. For example, the Anchor pose was created from classic left tackle of Erik Williams of the Dallas Cowboys. Williams was about 6 feet 7 and 305 lbs. Therefore, I created a formula to create Williams to be 6 foot 7 in miniature and weigh 305 grams. From that, I used a certain factor that I created and multiplied that by the weight of an average NFL player at that position and came up with the proportionate weights of each figure. What you will see is that the linemen are the heaviest players we have. The Backers are proportionally about 20-40 lbs less. The DBs and RBs are similar in weight. The WR's are often the lightest players but built in a manner to be the fastest players. We find that center of gravity is very important in the figures and adding a little adhesive weight to a certain part of the base (underneath) gives the perfect blend of balance and speed. Police "ing" a style which allows variable weights is very difficult to do. Therefore, the DFW and the TSO stuck with 4.0 grams. From a scientific point of view, the players perform at a very efficient manner. Players have great acceleration. Their speed is tremendous. Their impact is very intimidating. And the momentum they carry makes you go Wow! In the DFW League, where you have the opportunity to use whatever you want, the players (and I can only speak for FF.COM players) are always among the very best teams in the league. I do know that there is a MARKED and VAST difference between the performance level of 3.2 gram-players and 4.0 gram-players. For us (and I am only speaking of the DFW), where games are fast paced, the 4.0 gram athlete is the best thing we could have ever done. Just my opinion Reginald |
#6
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Again, take this for what it is worth, I'm a life long football fan, and I have been sponging up everything I can for about a month now.
But only one month. It seems to me the best league would be one that restricts weight by position. It is harder to govern, but is the most realistic and fair. Sadly, this makes the purchase of a $15 digital jewelry scale off EBAY almost a league necessity. But, I think the best most realistic formula, is the following: Weight Limits: 4.0 grams max for OL and DL 3.6 grams max for QBs, RBs, TEs and LBs 3.2 grams max for WRs and DBs Figures: ALL figures - custom or stock -should be allowed as long as they meet height, width and length limits. Height - Figures should be no taller than ff.com's BLITZER; Width - Figures should be no wider than Miggle/Tudor's '67 Big Man DB; Length - Figure limbs should not extend further than Buzzball's CVR or ff.com's BARRY. Bases: ALL current manufacturers stock bases should be allowed. But only those that are readily available via a web link for all to buy, EASILY, without going to EBAY and performing a search for old out of date or hard to find items. No Frankensteining - combining bases or attaching additional prongs should never be allowed; You should be allowed to remove, pull, stretch, smash, flash, squish or squeeze the prongs underneath; Base shells should be unmodified other than removing the flashing either by quick flame or Exacto knife; Putty under the base should be allowed as long as it is not protruding on any figure except the TTQB. Absolutely no metal or screws or nails under bases. Double-sided tape or a washable kid's glue stick should be allowed to attach or hold loose figures to base as long as either doesn't ooze or protrude from underneath the platform causing other players to stick to it, and as long as, upon request, they are easily separated for weight verification. Double-sided tape or minimal kid's glue stick should be allowed to attach or hold in place loose dials to shells. *** Just my two cents. But this seems to be the best. *** Again, take this for what it is worth. I have ONE MONTH'S EXPERIENCE. (Although I have been eating, sleeping and pooping EF since I started) Last edited by BigFranco : 12-08-2007 at 09:56 AM. |
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