Electric Football Think Tank Round 1

[detroitchild]

Originally Posted by JIMBO

There are already 7 different sets of "national" rules as defined by each Tournament. Not to mention, the 100s of leagues that use some or all of one or more sets. I would say 7 different styles to choose from is enough. No one should be THEE NATIONAL SET OF RULES. About the closest to "national" is Miggle's since they are the ONLY manufacturer of the game. Don't even include that other company's POC here!!! But even then their rules are influenced by different people each year, so again it has flavoring from the others sprinkled on top.

1. Miniature College Football Championship (1st wkend in Jan.)
2. Miggle World Championship (last wkend in Jan.)
3. Buzzfest (Mar)
4. Beltsville Bash (May)
5. Bama Blast (1st wkend in June)
6. Seawall BRAWL (3rd wkend in June)
7. Texas Shootout (TBD, usually Labor Day)

Okaaaaaay! Interesting. I'm sure finding the rule sets for each tournament is simple enough. I usually find out about these tournaments from post on here but is there a compiled list of them (with rule sets/styles of play) some where?

As always thanks Jimbo.

DC

[WEIRDWOLF]

We list them in the Tweak issues and have asked the MFCA reps to keep these dates updated in the forum calendar but it is something new and they are not used to doing it yet on a regular basis.

The interesting thing about rules is they all have a common background or "genealogy". Almost all rule sets have a degree of similarity. I find it no problem to go to Buzzfest, or the Shootout, or the NHFL, or our own TAEFL (All places I have competed) and at the very least compete due to the similarities. I lose out at times because of not knowing some of the obscure differences but most coaches will give you a break initially as you learn.
I am actually glad that there is such a variety. It keeps things always fresh. The one thing that creates the biggest problem is equipment differences. 4.0, 3.2, 3.3 this base allowed, that base not, etc. I don't need a "national" set of rules but I would like us to establish some classes that these rule sets fit under and these could be defined largely by maximum weight allowed. Much like weight classes in boxing. Then however you have to throw in field sizes and actual scale and proportions of men. It has been argued many times but I think for the good of the hobby we should at least set some scale and weight divisions to give ourself some legitimacy in comparison to other tabletop games. This would also help newbies, as they pursue starting in the hobby, a direction to head towards rather then all over the place.

I do agree every Tournament and League should declare their "category" for those that wish to travel to them, moreso the Tourneys, than the Leagues. But, when it comes to new people in the hobby, I think Step 1 should ALWAYS be to direct them to their local League, if there is one.

Being overwhelmed by reading about all of the differences i.e. weight, figures, boards, etc. really shouldn't be a newb's only 1st step. If that's all they do and don't even bother meeting the fellas, then IMHO I think they are more likely to find another hobby!!! That's just me.

As a new person in the hobby back in '90-something, it really didn't matter that L.A., Dallas and Detroit boiled their bases if the league in Chicago/Gary didn't. All the different ways that I read about didn't matter as much as the way Edgar and Frank played: with the Strategy Divider. That's the way I had to play if I wanted to play live people. That or drive to Detroit or Columbus or KC.

[TVsCHACHI]

TTQ AND Sticks, nothing wrong with variety, BUT method must be stated and not retracted within 10 Mississippi-Seconds of the stopped play.

I had questions regarding why we weigh the figure and base and not the figure/base together, the answer I got was to detract cheating, fellas shoeing up a larger figure with a heavier base, pushing that figure over the weight limit, thus creating a POSSIBLE advantage. Although I understand this, it bugs me. I know this is a forum of ideas, but I have a few questions as well. One being why, in some leagues and tournaments, are coaches not allowed to glue their figures to their base, this could eliminate the threat of my above mentioned scenario, and if figure/base with glue falls under the allowable weight, all is well, no?



In the attempt to keep things even for the newbie and Champion alike, while appeasing the veterans, is it too much to instate TWO sets of rules, similar to those of Buzzball. One being stock figures under specific limits of weight, equipment, etc. Two being the hybrid-rule set of varied weights (lineman, WR, LB, DB, etc etc) equipment, customs.

???

People like choices, even if it's only a dirt sandwich or bologna popsicle.



Disclaimer
(nobody's idea are dirt and/or bologna,
I'm just cutting-up,
bologna popsicles make me laugh )

In my League (MWEFL - Chicago, IL and Gary, IN) I strongly advocate the exclusive use of kids' glue stick to adhere figure to base. It adds minimal weight, it dries quickly, it can be reconstituted with a lil spittle if it comes apart or if ya need to flip the player backwards for trick plays i.e. WR Bubble Screens.

I've seen other glues in use and just don't think it looks good.

• Elmer's glue takes forever to dry and oozes out of the cracks and creates sticky edges (see below). Plus, when it finally does dry, it cracks off and accumulates in the hard to clean areas of your board!!! If you do have an "injury" then you gotta scrape off the old and apply new glue and wait forever again!!!
• Hot glue adds considerable weight and also becomes tacky, so the edges will tend to stick to each other and will clearly be used to help an OL "stick" together in their flying wedge. Thru thick and thin, that OL really sticks together!!! :rolleyes:
• Spray tack, for obvious reasons, shouldn't be used. Can you say, "Stick 'em?" I knew that you could.

So, IMHO, kids' glue stick (I use the purple/invisible one) is the least offensive (works on your defensive players too! ) glue out there. An added bonus is that it CAN be easily removed by rubbing the bottom of the figure on a wet cloth!