universal base-tweaking truths

[mklingbeil]

Guys,
Bill and I are working on some new bases for EF. Some of the bases are very familiar, some are stuff you never even thought of before. However, we want to get this right (these things cost quite a bit of money), so I have enlisted the help of a few GREAT tweakers to get their input.

What I am looking for, since I am nearing the end of the design phase, is a few universal truths. These are basic assumptions people have about bases. Here are mine:

1. If the prongs are wide (strong bases), the plastic must be soft and these prongs are better a little long. Additionally, wider prongs must be thinner (>.4 mm) in width.

2. If the prongs are thin (fast bases), the plastic must be harder than that used for strong bases and the prongs must be shorter to support the weight. Likewise, thinner prongs must be slightly thicker (.4 mm) in width.

3. On a TTC base, the prongs in the wheel must be thinner because they cannot be as long due to the thickness of the wheel.

4. Two prongs on each side is always better than just one (not too sure about this one).

5. Longer prongs are generally better because it is a simple process to cut them. It is much more difficult to pulle prongs evenly.

6. Prongs should be set as close to the front or back and outside of a base as possible.

7. If possible (the base does not move sideways), a base should have a forward lean. In other words, the back of the base should be higher than the front.

8. The darker the base, the more color was used and as a result the base is more stiff and less productive.

9. Bases must be in accordance with general EF standards to be successful in the marketplace.

10. A platform of 24mm is best. The smaller Miggle men will not fall off, yet the buzzball figures and Miggle big men still fit.


Questions?
1. Is it the front or the back prongs that provide strength?

2. What is it that makes a base truly fast?

3. Is longer really better? (don't worry, no one will judge...LOL)

4. Is a base more sturdy if the prongs are close together or further apart.


These are my assumptions and questions. I would love to get your input. If you think I am wrong on one of my assumptions, PLMK siting evidence. If you have things to add, please do the same. All entrys will be considered before these bases are produced, and these bases will create more options which can only help the hobby...so help me help you (LOL).

Thanks so much,
Mark Klingbeil

[Coach K-LO]

I can only work with what is available, but the science behind it all is not my forte.

if your new stuff is going to go thru the "tweak-line" if should be simular to the ITZ dials ....

thin prongs are faster than the thick prongs, however, a smooth finish of a prong at the point of contact (to the field) also increases speed no matter thin/thick.

bases that are "jacked up" have been considered stronger but I have seen where even prongs have "man-handled" by even prongs.

[Silverhorse 228]

Hey do you guys have any numbers left that you would like to sell?

[Geno H]

Hmmmmmm..........Great questions!

Geno H

[WEIRDWOLF]

I'm no expert but that all sounds right to me.
I want someone to develop something completely different though. How about instead of prongs on the back (or maybe the front) a molded sheet like the old 2D yellow and red figures were. Designed right, I think you could get a much stronger base without a big weigth increase.
Also, I have thought that a remake of the redpegs would be cool.
While I'm at it, how about a base weighting system with standard sized lead weights that could snap in under the base or you could leave a hole on the top of the base big enough for different weighted lead pieces that could be dropped in.

INNOVATE MAN.....
GENIUS!!

[Silverhorse 228]

Good grief Weirdwolf! Why don't we just cut the men off of their bases and teach them all how to run!! (notice two exclamation marks) LOL

This is exciting stuff! Three cheers for Mark...hip-hip-HORAY...hip-hip-HORAY...hip-hip-HORAY!

Mark,
Everything sounds just about right to me ,but there are only a few people who I know who have the deepest secrets of Baseolgy. Since K-LO has bowed out that leaves: Mike Pratt, Rene' Smith, Keith Chalmers, Jim Davis.
Find Mike Pratt!

Mark,

One product that I would design if I were able to do so would be a weighted base. Our system (MPFL) uses figures with unlimited weight with the logic in mind that a base that is too-heavy will not be able to stand (sort of like an obese chicken). Also, a base that is too light voids strength and power.

If I were going to design a new base, I would create them in three to four types from super-heavy to super light-weight (on rookie prongs). Our system is growing fast and a base tailored to this sytle of play would be a huge asset. Also, a base that runs straight consistently is the way to go. If players would only run straight right out of the bag, it would be much easier to promote the hobby to newcomers.

Outside of that, I'd say that base prongs seem to be too weak and flimsy generally. Perhaps a base with a stronger more durable plastic would help.

Bases that move straight in any direction (no arch) would be also be perfect for our style. Then we could create complex blocking schemes in our rookie base system.

I am going to ask AB to chime in on this. We can solve any mystery when working in concert.

I'll will reply again tomorrow.

[mklingbeil]

Red pegs WILL be among those included. Do you find it an accident that the Miggle Proline bases (single clip) have a hole in them? We wanted Mike to do it, but we can make ours to fit both our rookie bases and the others.

Bill and I have found the PERFECT plastic. I sent a master tweaker a couple of bases and he was very excited about them. Now, if we can get the design correct, we can really have something good for this hobby!

That is why I am asking for your help, and I very much appreciate the input already given!

Mark

PS Weirdwolf...I would love to do that idea, but it is nearly impossible. The prongs are best when thinnest, and that single prong would have to be .3mm thick at the minimum. That being the case, tweaked prongs are best when between .1-.2mm thick, and there wouldn't be enough room to properly tweak. I played with that idea and was unable to come up with a solution.

Decalmaster...Actually, some of the bases we are going to make will be oversized. Bill and I are making them for our solitaire league, but will offer them for sale as well. There will be a large Rookie base, a boat base, and two large TTC bases (one replicating a boiled base). Everyone else don't worry though, most bases will conform to strict standards for EF play. There will be 14-15 bases on the mold, and only four will be Non-Standard!

Tron...I could definitely use those guys help as well, but I only know Jim Davis and Mike Pratt. I have already spoken with Jim, but would LOVE to talk with Mike, since I have a great admiration for his skill, and we worked well together on the Proline bases. If the other guys would want to help, I would definitely be open to talking with them...I can use all the help I can get!

K-Lo...If you love the dials...well, trust me, this new base will make the dials look like child's play. Imagine doing just about ANYTHING with a base...any direction, any curve...that is what is coming! Additonally, we are going to add a few dials that will fit into ANY TTC base in this mold. I am really excited about this, can you tell?

[mklingbeil]

anyone else?