Question for painters

[Hook'em Horns]

I've been painting for several years now and still after years of experience there is something that I still cant figure out. After a year or so from the time the team is finished I start to see a yellowish tint on teams that have a lot of white in their uniforms.

Let me say "Yes" before you ask me the question...Do I paint on the white? I do because the figure gets a cleaner look once complete. However, it never fails after several months I start to see a yellowish tint on the white portion of the uniform.

Any other painters have this problem and if so what have you done to prevent this from happening?

Thank you for your help.

[Shabby J]

Mike are you spraying or brushing on any type of clear coat, varnish, etc.. to protect the paint and decals? If so that could be the culprit, as some of them do yellow over time. Learned that the hard way myself. What type of paints are you using, curious.

[Michigan Joe]

Hey Mike, lets get this figured out. This has happened to many people and I'm sure collectively we can figure this out and eliminate it.

I've never had this problem, albeit I've only been painting for ~2 years. I paint the figures with acrylic paints (including white) and seal them with delta ceramcoat semi-gloss indoor/outdoor varnish (brush on polyurathane). Then I decal and use I use the same delta ceramcoat polyurathane coating, this time matte for the uniforms and gloss for the helmets. The white on my teams from ~ 2 years is like the white of fresh fallen snow (maybe you don't know what that looks like down in TX ). The polyurathane coating is very DURABLE! I started using this from the beginning off of recommendations on the Miggle site from MGUTT, and I'm very happy with it.

Do use modge podge over decals, that could be the culprit. Also heard from others that Testors flatte spray coat may yellow over time. Maybe you can share your sealing method so we can learn from this collectively.
Joe

[5-13 Studios]

well, i can give an opinion, not only from miniature painting, but from years of commercial painting as well. solvent based paints and clears, especially lacquers, yellow over time. now, some paints, even though they are fully cured, "gas out" over time. this gassing out is what tends to make paints brittle and flake off over long periods of time, and it also can change the tint in a color. of course, the color that a change would be most recognized would be white.
now, personally, lacquers and enamels have been the worst culprits that i have come across. however, i have seen some acrylics do some strange things, but it usually takes bizarre conditions.

[Vince148]

So, Joe...You're using a coat BEFORE decaling, then again AFTER decaling?

Are you using a primer before painting as well?

[Coach K-LO]

since i started using ployurathene, my paint jobs have lasted without yellowing......

[Coach Rip]

is the handling of the actual figures. I always pick up a figure by the base or it's platform.

ALL of us have oils in our skin, ......................Some of us have more oil in our skin than others, but I have many teams which I have had for 10 years or so and none of them have yellowed. I will also add that I have used many different types of clear coats. Testors dull cote, delta ceramcoat and others included.

I know many of us play at pizza shops, and other places, even our houses where we serve food. Chips, pizza, fries, and others things have oils and other things on them that if one isn't careful about handling the figures will get on the figure and any of that stuff will turn over time as it oxidizes.

Rule of thumb, ....... always have clean hands or some type of wet nap around if you are eating, and handle the figures by the base or platform, and I 'm pretty sure most of your yellowing problems will subside.

Store figures from Sun Light, ....

[artlax]

Any enamel paint or spray will yellow over time and be clearly evident on white - more than other colors.

The only way to avoid is to use acrylic paints and sealers.

Testors Model Master is making some great acrylics now that adhere very well.

Some other acrylics do not - and may scratch/wear off over time.

Also - for a sealer I use only MicroScales clear finishes - flat for the bodies and gloss for the helmets.

[Geno H]

I am not a good painter but I do paint my own teams. The first figures I painted I clear coated with spray can acrylic. It yellowed in about 10 months. I then switched to Delta ceramcoat clear brush on. Over 2 years now and no yellowing. Thats my experience. I had assumed it was the propellant in the spray can..........


Geno H

[Coach K-LO]

Originally Posted by Coach Rip

is the handling of the actual figures. I always pick up a figure by the base or it's platform.

ALL of us have oils in our skin, ......................Some of us have more oil in our skin than others, but I have many teams which I have had for 10 years or so and none of them have yellowed. I will also add that I have used many different types of clear coats. Testors dull cote, delta ceramcoat and others included.

I know many of us play at pizza shops, and other places, even our houses where we serve food. Chips, pizza, fries, and others things have oils and other things on them that if one isn't careful about handling the figures will get on the figure and any of that stuff will turn over time as it oxidizes.

Rule of thumb, ....... always have clean hands or some type of wet nap around if you are eating, and handle the figures by the base or platform, and I 'm pretty sure most of your yellowing problems will subside.

Store figures from Sun Light, ....

thanks another helpful hint!!